AK in Japan!

A collection of Aaron's thoughts, musings, reflections and pics while living and working in Japan. It will serve both as a personal journal, and as a vehicle for sharing with those who are interested... enjoy!

Saturday, May 26, 2007

MASAOKA MATSURI

From what I gather, centuries ago a woman from Ichihasama was the nanny to the royal prince. She was supremely dedicated to her task of protecting the life of the price and even had her son pre-taste the food the prince was to eat to make sure it wasn’t poisoned. Well, as it turns out, one day the food had indeed been poisoned and the Masaoka’s son died after testing the prince’s food. For this, she became a martyr and there has been a festival in Ichihasama honoring her patriotic sacrifice since her death.

“You will participate in the festival… can you meet on Sunday at 9:00 AM?” Initially, these words filled me with dread. As often is the case here in Japan, us JETs are often left completely unaware or uninformed of vital information until the last minute. When my supervisor called me on Thursday telling me that I was expected to participate in an all day festival on Sunday, it didn’t make me too happy. Compounding the issue was that it was the start of Golden Week- the week in Japan with all of these consecutive national holidays, and the big travel week in Japan. Granted, some degree of mis or non-communication is expected when first living in a foreign country and a situation like this didn’t get to me in the beginning, but as time has gone on, I assumed that communication would get better and better with familiarity. Unfortunately, it hasn’t, and when people “forget” to tell me about information pertaining to my schedule, especially outside of school obligations, well it really makes me feel left out and disrespected. I am aware that this may be a cultural difference, but from what I gather the Japanese are extremely well informed of all the happenings in their schedules and events in their towns, so it’s not like the way they live is all that different than how we do things back in the states. Am I old and rooted to my ways, or would even Pollyanna have trouble with this over time? I sometimes wonder…

Anyway, I showed up to my obligation at the beginning of Golden Week with my spirits having lifted a bit. When I arrived at the community center a pair of old obachans (cute little grandmas) were waiting for me with all the gear to wear. They were accompanied by two younger ladies who looked to be in their late thirties or so. I didn’t know what to expect, but soon understood that I would be dressed and slathered with make-up to look like a geisha. Now this would be interesting. The geisha garb was amazing. It was a 3-4 layers of clothing, each layer getting progressively heavier the farther out it was from my body. It was constrictive in every way and also claustrophobia-causing. I couldn’t get a deep breath through all the layers and ties. A couple times even I thought to myself, “Will I be able to make it through this?” Getting me ready took close to two hours. It was a marvel to watch this pack of ladies chat and whiz about me to get me presentable for the festival. Really, they put so much time and effort into me I am so grateful. I couldn’t believe that the geisha wear this stuff everyday! I felt so lucky to have a job where I could wear a comfy cotton shirt and jeans if I wanted. All in all, it was well worth the time and effort. After I was fitted, I was helped to the awaiting float outside. After I was loaded on, the other parade members from this area gathered around and there was a small photo shoot. Then we headed into the town center a few blocks away to join the other floats and groups waiting there. In all there were about 15 groups participating in the parade from all over Ichihasama. The performing groups ranged from school bands, to traditional dancers. Michelle, Mark, and Mark’s parents were able to come and see me in all my glory. As I we made our way through the town, I couldn’t wipe the smile off of my face- especially as we passed by my kids and their expressions went from wonder, to recognition, to absolute surprise and laughter. I winked, waved, and blew kisses and they blushed with a mixture of being embarrassed and just not knowing how to respond to such an odd site! Honestly, my face hurt from smiling so much.

The parade lasted for a couple of hours and it was a blast the whole time. As we arrived back at the area’s community center, there was my group of ladies waiting to return me back to normal once again. This process was much quicker and I was back to my old self within a half an hour. I made my way outside and all the men were busy disassembling the float and packing things away for next year. I wanted to make it back to my friends at the parade, thought it wouldn’t be right to leave until I had a drink at the after party and said thank you for the wonderful experience. I was glad I stuck around because the after party was a blast! After a round of speeches we toasted to a great time and the festivities began. Soon the women removed themselves to the kitchen and readied the area that the men were to be relegated to. The men’s party just meant further drinking and eating and as the sake flowed, so did the English of the previously quiet people around me. That’s something I’ve learned about Japan: the people only cut loose and open up when they’re well likkered up, and you think you’ve made some great progress towards starting an ongoing dialogue/relationship only to be shut down when you realize that although getting drunk and crazy is acceptable in Japan, it is not acceptable to talk about it ever again. This policy is quite different from the US. On one side it’s great because if you made a real ass of yourself it completely acceptable, there is no shame and the “jackassedness” is totally forgotten. On the other hand, the social bonds and progress you made being a bit uninhibited by the spirits is also forgotten and it’s back to feeling like a stranger with your fellow partygoers the next day. At the end of the evening I was loaded into a pre-paid taxi and driven home belly full and feeling content with this wonderful experience that could only happen in small town Japan. I was honored to be a part of this parade. This was yet another reminder that too often I catch myself judging an experience as negative before even trying it. I’ll admit that I’ve had a problem with this my whole life with things “I don’t want to do” and it’s just a plain ol’ bad habit. From this experience I will remember that it is important to first “Look on the bright side” before thinking about possible negatives.