Here's Mark when he climbed Mt. Fuji

Onsen Magic:
Onsens, or Japanese baths/hot tubs, are an essential destination point when visiting Japan. They are, after all, an integral part of the Japanese culture. Before I continue, I must clear up a possible misconception: Japanese baths are not akin to the small personal hot tubs we see in western style homes. On the contrary, onsens are more like spas that we would splurge for in the US, however they are much cheaper here in Japan, more numerous, and simply more commonplace. Onsens are visited by men, women, there are even family sections to onsens. It is not common for onsens to be co-ed (or mixed), but there are surely usually sections for both men and women, and you will find mixed onsens every so often- it just depends on the establishment. Onsens, I believe, are more frequented by men in Japan since, like in the US, childcare responsibilities seems to fall upon the women. (just as in the US it is more common of the “guys” to head out and grab a couple of beers after work). This isn’t the man’s “right” so to say, it’s just the way it is. I have been curious as to whether the women’s section of the onsen is as big or as high quality as the men’s side, and I have yet to ask somebody, but I’m betting that for lack of space, they might get the short end of the stick  I just learned that sometimes it is the hours of access that is divided between men and women rather than the space, and that would solve any possible problems in physical location.

Often onsens are purposely crafted to be in harmony with their surroundings: alongside a river, overlooking a spectacular view, etc… Many onsens, however, can be found in a nondescript building in the heart a major city. So there are a multitude of variations that the onsen-seeker can consider to find his or her perfect onsen. Being the nature-lover that I am, I prefer the outdoor onsen, or, “rotenburo.” Fortunately for me, many of these types of onsen can be found in the region that I am living in due to the mountainous terrain nearby. This Saturday, I plan on doing some exploring on my own to find just such a place.

This past Tuesday, Mark, an Irish ALT and friend of mine in the next town over introduced me to my first onsen experience. This onsen was located about 40 minutes away in a little mountain town called Naruko. The town is in the bottom of a rive valley and has a good feel to it. Naruko being at a higher elevation than Ichihasama, the temperature there was a bit cooler than and it was a bit breezier. Mark perilously drove us through the mountains at Indy-500 speeds (yes, it was even fast by my standards). The roads are curvy two lane roads and were deserter except for the random semi-truck every so often. We arrived at Mike’s apt safe and sound and walked a short distance to the onsen. This particular onsen was a part of a hotel and Mark and Mike were good buddies with the owner, so he let us stay till about 9:30. Although I am still learning about the procedures for appropriate onsen etiquette, my understanding is that it goes as follows:
1. This particular onsen had a little machine where you press the button for what you want, like “Onsen: 1 adult” and the price pops on the screen, you put in the money and out pops the ticket. You could also order food (not to be eaten in the onsen), towels, etc… this way. These kinds of machines are popular in cities at ramen places, and Japanese fast-food places. I think they are very convenient and I really like them!
2. Next, head to the locker room where you will take off your shoes and put them in a cubby.
3. Step up to the changing area and where you strip down to your birthday suit and put your clothes in one of the big baskets. Nudity is always the norm at an onsen, unless it is family hour at a hotel or resort.
4. A courtesy towel is standard equipment at an onsen and if you didn’t ring one, you could buy one from the little machine I mentioned in step #1. These are just basic white hand towel, and they are used for a variety of purposes that I will start to mention here.
5. Next, with the courtesy towel deftly placed over your most private area, you enter the onsen area.
6. It is expected that you fully wash your whole body before actually entering the soaking area. This particular onsen had a number of showers surrounding the indoor onsen, but the cool thing is the showerheads are the removable kind with a hose, and they’re mounted a few feet off the ground on the wall over a little mirror. Also around each showerhead is a small stool, a bar of soap, and often some shampoo and conditioner for you to use. Have a seat and enjoy a hot shower. This is a fun social time to chat with whomever you came with and for self-conscious westerners there are no worries because as you face the wall and shower, your legs are placed so as to hide the family jewels from revealing all of their glory. Now you’re ready to head to the soaking tub!
7. Often there are a couple of places you can choose from, and the tubs are often different temperatures. This place had an inside tub, and an outside landscaped area. The inside tub was HOT! The outside tub was just right and that’s the one we chose. When you enter the soaking area it is expected that you are quiet. Onsens are a place of peace, so splashing and talking loud is highly frowned upon. Likewise, when you enter the tub, you are supposed to slide in the tub and settle in to a spot as quickly as possible. If your tub is piping hot, this can be very difficult! I know there has been many times in my experience where I have huge huff when entering super hot water (Ex: “Holy crap! Ahhrgh! This sucker is _______ hot! Etc..), this wouldn’t be ok in Japan so bite your lip and take the pain!
8. After 30 seconds or so, you are used to the temp and you can sit back and let the wonderful waters of the onsen work their magic. On this day, Mark mysteriously materialized some icy cold 22 oz beers and it was absolutely perfect. 

Speaking of “magical onsen waters,” the water of each onsen establishment contains a different combination of minerals and salts. As a result, onsens in different areas are said to cure many different kinds of ailments. For example an onsen in Kurikoma is said to be good for the joints, the onsen in Hasama good for the liver, one in Furukawa good for erectile dysfunction (seriously!), etc… If you’ve got a problem, there’s an onsen that is somewhere out there for you. Many books contain this type of data and onsen fanatics will know where you need to go if you ask around.

With all this said, I had a great night and want to thank Mark Barr right now. We had a Phat feast back at Mike’s before heading back to ours over the mountains. When I did finally get home I went straight to my bed and was asleep that night before my head hit the pillow. I slept like a log and woke up in the same position I went to sleep… it was one of those. If it is any impetus for any of my friends or family members, I will most definitely provide you with one of these magical onsen visits if you come out to visit! :)